Until Ruger gives the GP100 a 7 round cylinder, I must consider it, as well as the 6 round 686, and all other medium-large frame .357 magnums with 6 round cylinders, functionally obsolete. As far as casting vs. forging, the S&W 686 and Ruger GP100 weigh exactly the same but it’s the Ruger that’s got the reputation as a tank. It was the first revolver I ever fired. That said I have neither. The GP100's are excellent guns but they feel clunky to me, and most 686's do also to a degree. Reply. I like S&W triggers whether new, broken-in, or tricked, a lot better, as I have a number of S%W's and have had only one GP-100 style lockwork, an SRH. In general, a stainless GP100 6-shot costs $829 while a stainless GP100 7-shot costs $899 ($50 more expensive than its Smith & Wesson counterpart, the 686 PLUS). OUR TOP PICK: Smith & Wesson Model 686 ; Ruger GP100 .357 Mag ; Chiappa Rhino 40DS ; Smith & Wesson Model 60 .357 Magnum ; Taurus Model 608 6.5" .357 Magnum ; BEST BUDGET OPTION: Taurus M605 .357 Magnum Revolver Since then there have been numerous attempts to do the same with GP-100 vs 686. Strength wise, they would be even - forged & heat treated S&W vs cast Ruger. Forget the GP100. But if I were looking for a hard use, even abuse resistant revolver to survive TEOTWAWKI I'd choose GP-100. The Ruger GP100 may be one of the smoothest shooting revolvers on this list. The Redhawk is more comparable to the N-frame. Any input is appreciated. I have never noticed much difference between the inherent accuracy of a gp 100 and a 686 - I'd say they are on par with each other - The Ruger GP100 and the Smith & Wesson 686. The 6" GP-100 looks bulkier, but only weighs 2 oz more than the 6-shot 686 (46 vs 44 oz). I’ve shot the GP100, but I have not shot the Smith & Wesson. I’ve narrowed it down to two options. Buy either the S&W 686+ (7 chamber cylinder) or the new Ruger .357 Magnum Redhawk (8 chamber cylinder). Anyone have experience with both of these that could lend an opinion ? The 686 won. I’m in the market for a .357 revolver (6 inch barrel). However, Ruger's use of "lost wax" investment casting also means that their guns may have to be a bit larger (in some dimensions, and often by weight) to match the strength of the forged frames used by S&W. Proper heat treating makes a world of difference in cast steel. I prefer the K frame size and Ruger Security/Speed/Service six line, or … Ruger gp100 versus S&W 686 « on: December 21, 2015, 05:46:19 pm » I'm thinking of getting myself a new wheel gun, probably in .357 magnum, and these two models catch my eye. I've been looking for a general purpose revolver (thread here) and had a chance to rent a standard GP-100 and a 686+ yesterday, GP-100 vs 686+ - what I learned Smith & Wesson Forum > Smith & Wesson Revolvers > S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present Specialist38 says: July 29, 2019 at 23:37 . I've had both and just like the "feel" of the 686 better. The GP100 was made to compete against the then-new S&W 686/586 models. But ounce for ounce, forged is stronger. Final conclusions have been mixed on that. I don't have a 686 (yet) but have a GP 100 (stainless, 6" barrel) - it's a great gun, built like a tank, plenty accurate - I have rented 686's at the local range many times. 'S do also to a degree have experience with both of these that could lend opinion. They feel clunky to me, and most 686 's do also a. Use, even abuse resistant revolver to survive TEOTWAWKI i 'd choose GP-100 TEOTWAWKI 'd., they would be even - forged & heat treated S & W models. 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